Western Arthurs Traverse.

A hard and visually spectacular walk, views are earned and rewarded here. We were lucky with the sun on the first few days, but it wasn't to last; after getting to Haven Lake we had a torrential downpour that refused to stop. After a day of it, we decided to bail out so to speak.
Tasmania: Western Arthurs Day 1 Trail head to Lake Cygnus

A good 6-12 months of solid training, preferably with a weighted backpack up and down stairs or hills and heaps of lunges is a strong recommendation that no-one gave me. Fortunately I keep reasonably fit, but reasonably fit is not sufficient for a trip like this. After three days of hard yakka I caved on the fourth and toughest day, suffering the most severe stomach spasms in my life after the endurance trial on the Be(u)ggary Bumps.

Day 1: from trail start to Lake Cygnus.

It's a long walk to get to the base of the Western Arthurs mountain range. What a great day to start on, I wonder how long the good weather will last ?
Walking - Western Arthurs Mud and plenty of it, a sure sign that this place does not stay dry for too long.
We are on the way up with fantastic views along the way. (Lake Pedder in the background)
A bit of heave ho to go before we reach the range ridge.
No artist in the world can compete with the wide variety of sculptures and use of palette on this traverse, no wonder the world's best photographers come up here.
I was hoping that my camouflage would help me blend in ! We are going to walk over yonder ridges. Gym preparation, me thinks is not going to be enough.
If the campsites did not have these boards we would be sleeping on rock and mud.
Lake Cygnus, pretty but that sand is somewhat hard on the feet.


Day 2 Lake Cygnus to Lake Oberon

Summary: one mean mother of a day. Big ups and big downs.  Visually stunning.

The weather is closing in and the ridges are more precipitous !
 
A long way down to get water ! There are lots of descents and ascents just like this.
 
Flowers - somehow managing to soften the rugged hostility.
 
So deep, so black, so cold. The allure of the perched lakes on the traverse.
There is life here, seeking comfort in the warm sun on a cushion plant.
 
This walk gives rewards at every turn, the motley crew except moi pose in one such rewarding view.
 
Garden of Eden atop the rim of Lake Oberon.
 
Vertigo anyone ?? - down we go. This is unreal !
 
Campsite at Lake Oberon, a well earned rest. I wish we lingered longer......
 


Day 3 Lake Oberon to High Moor

This is the hardest part of the trip. 7 to 8 hours of full on gym work. There is no respite with the ups and downs of the aptly named and politically corrected Beggary Bumps. I cried for mercy as the muscles in my stomach spasm severely whilst setting up the tent on High Moor.

Exciting moments passing ourselves and packs through this boulder formed passage.
With nothing but earth and roots to hold on to we naturally felt a bit apprehensive. But somehow it was all right and we safely descended.
After 8 hours of slog over the Beggary bumps we arrive and  the High Moor. The ground was soft and boggy, laden with moisture.

This place was very windy, forming a funnel in its saddle form. An exciting moment  whilst pitching our tents -  Brett nearly lost his tent when a strong gust ripped it off its pegs, we shouted and he turned in a timely fashion to catch it upon lift off.
 
Views from the High Moor, as good as anywhere else.
 


Day 4 High Moor to Haven Lake
Not many photos here, as the rain emptied from the skies. This is what Tasmania's wilderness areas are renowned for. A true test of our tents and mettle as we wait out the storm. I am very glad to have invested the money in my Macpac tent and Kathmandu Goretex jacket, both pieces of equipment proved their worth today.

Lake Haven camp sites - find a spot !
Each lake has its particular beauty, this is no exception.


Time to Leave

After a day, the sky clears and it's time to return to the comforts of home. It's a long walk back through very wet grass and swollen rivers.

A wet exit.
Circus skills are handy here.
 
 A wet camp site.
 
 Thankfully, inside a dry tent.

Before blogs became popular I had track notes, interesting read of the original (if you can decipher my writing !)


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